Sábado, 24 de Diciembre de 2011 11:00
A Pomaire local forms clay into a vase. Photo by Kendal Montgomery.
If you like pottery and empanadas, Pomaire is a must.
Just a 50-kilometer drive west of Santiago, located in the Melipilla area, this quaint, little artesian town makes for a perfect day-trip, respite from the smog and city bustle. The road there —like always— is mountainous and beautiful, and busses in Santiago go to and fro multiple times a day.
It is nearly certain that if you´ve eaten at a restaurant in Chile, you´ve encountered a dish from Pomaire. The town is famous for its earthenware dispersed throughout the country.
Established in the 1500´s by the indigenous group Curaca Pomaire, inhabitants have always made their living from molding clay. Though one can find colorful, glazed pieces, the majority stay true to tradition applying the same techniques used more than 450 years ago.
It´s a simple pottery, inspired from the earth.
However, not all in this dusty town, which is basically comprised of one main street, is so simple. Weighing up to one kilo, they are famous for their giant, absolutely delicious empanadas. Most are filled with the traditional pino: meats (honestly, mine had an entire chicken leg inside), onions, olives, hard-boiled eggs, raisens and then some. They are elaborate creations.
Going on a weekday is ideal, as the weekends are generally quite crowded; Mondays are not advisable due to most shops closing up and taking their day of rest.
There is something special about taking earth, water and fire to create items that last a lifetime. Pomaire is a tribute to that, and well worth a visit.
Getting there by bus: There are several options. Buses to Melipilla leave every ten minutes from the San Borja Terminal at Estación Central Metro Station, and cost around $1.500 CLP one-way. From there one can take a short ride in a "colectivo" to Pomaire. Also, there are less-frequent, direct buses, for around $1.400 CLP.
Getting there by car: Take Route 78, the "Autopista del Sol," and exit at Pomaire, where there is a $1.200 CLP toll. Also, the more scenic, no-toll option is "Camino a Melipilla," which is a little slower and bumpier.
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