The top look-out point on the Santa Lucia hill, the very rocks where Pedro de Valdivia stood so long ago. Photo by Kendal Montgomery.
Having recently moved extremely close to the Santa Lucia hill (Cerro Santa Lucia), I figured it was time I finally go check it out, and it was actually a pleasant surprise.
This is the hill where on 13 December, 1540, Pedro de Valdivia conquered the area and later founded Santiago for the Spanish throne. There had already been a large number of indigenous peoples settled in the area, but with just 150 other soldiers, Valdivia won the hill and secured the territory. Today, there is a plaza near the top named after Valdivia, as well his statue with the names of all who helped during the battle against the natives.
The hill is full of all kinds of look-outs, paths, patios and statues. It´s quite a fun place to explore and imagine what Santiago must have looked like to the conquerers—smogless, lush greens with the giant Andes surrounding the valley.
After circling around the 69-meters-high hill, and climbing quite a bit of steep stone steps, you arrive to the top look-out point at a little chapel, La Ermita, which is absolutely incredible. Unlike Cerro San Cristobal, you can actually stand in one spot, turn full circle and see nothing but the city below the entire time. On a clear day, I imagine there is no better place in the capital to view the urban sprawl. They also have a few lookout binoculars if you want a closer view.
Later, during the Spanish Reconquest in the early 1800´s, the Hidalgo Castle was constructed on the hill as a fortress for Santiago. It now serves as an events center, hosting the popular "After Office," on Wednesday nights, a time where young, privileged—you can only enter by invitation—professionals drink and dance in the castle. For the general public, the gates remain closed, but on their site you are able to take a virtual tour of its premises.
It wasn´t until 1872 though that the Santa Lucia hill was transformed into the hill we see today, when politician Benjamín Vicuña Mackenna decided to convert the rocky mound into lavish gardens with fountains and patios, an urban park. It used to be a park for the privileged, and though it is still quite beautiful today, I imagine it has seen quite a bit of decline in standards since then. And what a shame that is.
During my entire trek I thought, this is beautiful, but in parts, dirty; special, but a bit run down. Naturally, its historic authenticity leads to an older "look," however, the graffiti and trash is bothersome. It is not as well kept as it could be, and it has an infamous reputation for being semi-dangerous, especially at night. I personally did not feel in danger while exploring the hill, and I believe that´s due to three things: an increase in security, daylight and its name simply getting a bad rap.
This is a beautiful hill and a historical monument. If you´re in Santiago, you simply must climb to the top to stand where Valdivia stood so many years ago. It´s gardens would be a great place for a picnic or to relax in the sun. All the paths and different points of interest throughout the hill can have you wandering for a couple hours, which I highly recommend you do.
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